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It does seem, from varios posts, that the batteries last just over 2 years irrespective of how they are used. Also the warnings seem to be hit and miss.

I would suggest that they are changed every 24 months even if they seem to be OK.

It very easy to do. Open the key and put something like a big screwdriver blade or even the blunt end of a dinner knife or fork in the slot where the key rests and twist. Don't try and do it with your fingers as the plastic edges are sharp and you may cut yourself. The cover will pop off easily. There is a very small slot, just big enough for a very small screwdriver, in the area surrounding the battery. Use that to release the battery. Inserting the new one is easy, just pop it in and press into place.
 

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hi google sent me here, my ateca just done same, was new march 2018 , spare key works fine , batteries both circa 2.93v , will try new one but sure its key, no red light either

did any of you have key in a Faraday pouch , long shot i know maybe thats knackering them
 

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Yeah don't get Morrisons own brand ones, I did, left me scratching my head before seeing this thread.
Tested them with a volt meter and they were 3v so I think its about the current they give aswell as volts.
swapped for Duracell and worked fine.
 

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Seems I was a lucky one. stopped working with no warning. Changed the battery for a proper branded one, heart in mouth pressed the button. Never been so relived to unlock a car with a remote in my life.
 

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Same thing happened to me, KESSY not working reliably for a couple of weeks then one day car wouldn't unlock even with unlock button. No dash warning. Spare key worked but Please replace key battery message popped up when I started, no chime, I even missed it the first time because it was only displayed very briefly upon engine start. Replaced both batteries and all is good. Looks like the dash warning is unreliable and easily missed when it actually works. As useless as the driver alert assist.
 

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Hi i have just had the same problem with my key not working, the doors sound like they are locking when driving, my radio fades in and out , also my cruise control has stopped working, garage had it for a day and said the diagnostic machine found no faults , its going back again next week as i need this fixing,and today my windscreen wiper has started making a noise , this car is only 2 1/2 years old and out of warrenty in september.
 

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Good morning everyone.
I have previously responded to a similar post on this subject.
I have had my Ateca for 18 months and have had to change the key fob battery 3 times. Each time I replace the previous battery with a Duracell one. My key fob merely opens the doors remotely (or the hatch) it is not a kessy system. However, to fold in the wing mirrors every time I park, I have to hold the remote button in for 3 seconds. I believe that is what is causing the reduced lifetime of the batteries.
With previous cars I have had, the batteries have lasted 2 years or more.
I am not that bothered about having to change them so often as even Duracell batteries can be bought on ebay or the like for about £1 each and it takes 30 sec to change the battery. I keep spare ones in the glove compartment and one in my wallet.
Wilber6
 

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I bought some Lidl ones last summer and touch wood they seem to last longer than Duracell ones. E.g. nearly 6 months now and no change. Package said they were made in Germany (properly by Vetra??), and they were £2.99 for a pack of six.
 

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I had a similar problem yesterday. Ateca Xcellence with kessy. The fob wouldn't unlock the doors. I opened the driver's door with the manual key and discovered for the first time in over two years of ownership that the car has an alarm! - a loud one :D Once inside it would only start if the fob was held against the r/h steering column casing. The spare fob also didn't work.

I bought a new pack of 2025 Toolstation batteries and fitted them to the two fobs. Still they would not work and the red LEDs didn't light. The new batteries checked out OK at around 3.25v.

After reading previous comments on this forum I bought a couple of new Energiser Lithium 2025s, installed them in the fobs and, hey presto, all working correctly with no synchronising necessary. The Toolstation batteries have worked fine in other equipment but it seems that the current draw of the fobs might pull the battery voltage below 3v?

BTW I rarely use the fob buttons, preferring to use the lock/unlock facility on the front door handles with fob kept in my pocket. That includes leaving my fingers against the handle for a few seconds while locking so that the mirrors wind in. Maybe using the fob buttons shortens their battery life?
 

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I had this with old Leon mk3; make you get "Duracell CR2025 3V Lithium Coin Cell Battery". Don't buy the cheep ones!
I have read this thread, as I now have the same problem, both keys don't work, no Led flash, changed the battery using durcell, no luck. Tried re programming using a suggestion above. Amy ideas people?
 

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Other posters, ie the one above yours, suggest they had to try a few batteries before they found one that worked.

Must admit we've not experienced that, but last Duracell I used only lasted 10 months and its replacement had only been in a few weeks when the car went for service and the dealer said diagnostics were showing low key battery voltage.

On other VAG forums some users have used CR2032 batteries - I tried one and it's a bit of fiddle to get it in and was worried the fob might burst open if it was dropped. But may be worth trying one of those if you've got one kicking around.
 

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I have read this thread, as I now have the same problem, both keys don't work, no Led flash, changed the battery using durcell, no luck. Tried re programming using a suggestion above. Amy ideas people?
Other posters, ie the one above yours, suggest they had to try a few batteries before they found one that worked.

Must admit we've not experienced that, but last Duracell I used only lasted 10 months and its replacement had only been in a few weeks when the car went for service and the dealer said diagnostics were showing low key battery voltage.

On other VAG forums some users have used CR2032 batteries - I tried one and it's a bit of fiddle to get it in and was worried the fob might burst open if it was dropped. But may be worth trying one of those if you've got one kicking around.
Hey, so I have fixed it using a Energizer 2025!!! Thanks to whoever suggested that. Clearly as mentioned it is dependent on what brand you buy. Duracell one didn't work. Relieved man..
 

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Failed KESSY fob
Last year my KESSY key fob failed and I paid almost £400 to have it replaced and re-synchronised by my SEAT dealership. Same thing happened yesterday with the other fob, but fortunately I read this thread before contacting SEAT and learned from your collective experience.
Thus: I opened the car door using the fob that was still working, and then took this one back inside the house in order to get it completely out of the way. Back in the car, I pressed the starter button and held the defunct fob against the KESSY icon on the right of the steering column. After a couple of attempts the red light on the fob flashed, the engine started and the KESSY has been working perfectly ever since. I cannot recall whether I depressed the brake pedal when pushing START, and I suspect that I did both. But either way the methodology solved the problem. I am very grateful to all the folks who have posted their experience, and who have helped to save me another £400. Thank you!
And by the way, I use Panasonic 2025 3V batteries, and these have been fine. I keep a spare in the glove compartment in case I need to replace the battery, knowing that I can in any event get into the car using the manual key.
DHT
 

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Failed KESSY fob
Last year my KESSY key fob failed and I paid almost £400 to have it replaced and re-synchronised by my SEAT dealership. Same thing happened yesterday with the other fob, but fortunately I read this thread before contacting SEAT and learned from your collective experience.
Thus: I opened the car door using the fob that was still working, and then took this one back inside the house in order to get it completely out of the way. Back in the car, I pressed the starter button and held the defunct fob against the KESSY icon on the right of the steering column. After a couple of attempts the red light on the fob flashed, the engine started and the KESSY has been working perfectly ever since. I cannot recall whether I depressed the brake pedal when pushing START, and I suspect that I did both. But either way the methodology solved the problem. I am very grateful to all the folks who have posted their experience, and who have helped to save me another £400. Thank you!
And by the way, I use Panasonic 2025 3V batteries, and these have been fine. I keep a spare in the glove compartment in case I need to replace the battery, knowing that I can in any event get into the car using the manual key.
DHT
Glad I spotted this. I have had to change the batteries in both fobs once so far. My car is now 27 months old. It never occurred to me to carry a spare battery. I will now. Thanks.
 

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Failed KESSY fob
Last year my KESSY key fob failed and I paid almost £400 to have it replaced and re-synchronised by my SEAT dealership. Same thing happened yesterday with the other fob, but fortunately I read this thread before contacting SEAT and learned from your collective experience.
Thus: I opened the car door using the fob that was still working, and then took this one back inside the house in order to get it completely out of the way. Back in the car, I pressed the starter button and held the defunct fob against the KESSY icon on the right of the steering column. After a couple of attempts the red light on the fob flashed, the engine started and the KESSY has been working perfectly ever since. I cannot recall whether I depressed the brake pedal when pushing START, and I suspect that I did both. But either way the methodology solved the problem. I am very grateful to all the folks who have posted their experience, and who have helped to save me another £400. Thank you!
And by the way, I use Panasonic 2025 3V batteries, and these have been fine. I keep a spare in the glove compartment in case I need to replace the battery, knowing that I can in any event get into the car using the manual key.
DHT
As a follow up to my earlier message:
The same fob has failed again. I eventually got it to work using the same method as above. But I just wanted to mention the battery. I checked the failed fob with a different battery, which I took from the working fob and which was therefore obviously working. The failed fob did not work. I then took a brand new battery from a packet and with this the failed fob worked. Clearly there is something quite peculiar going on with batteries and how different fobs respond to power levels in the batteries. But I am definitely going out this afternoon to buy a couple of new packs!
 

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Might be worth trying with a CR2032, as other VAG brand owners have.

I tried in one of our fobs but it's a bit of a tight fit and as the car is daughter's (and the clumsy daughter at that!) I was bothered that her dropping the fob might cause it to pop open
 
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