Seat Ateca SUV Forum banner

Electric tailgate opening problem

57K views 65 replies 37 participants last post by  dh91779 
#1 ·
Hi there,

I'm having an intermittent problem with opening the tailgate on my 2018 Excellence ... it will unlock and start to open, then stop and sound the 3 error beeps.

There's no apparent consistency on where it fails ... sometimes it does it as soon as the tailgate starts to move, other times it gets part way open. But once it does it, it won't open or close, and it stays stuck until I manually move it.

At first the problem seemed to be associated with putting the car through a car wash, or leaving it in the sun, but now it's appearing more and more often. Has anybody got any idea what might be causing it, and how I can fix it? Or am I looking at just taking the car back to the dealer to fix?
 
#3 ·
I may be wrong but I think it may be current draw increasing above a cetrtian level that indicates it may have hit something, so it may be a case of dry slides or missalignment/binding
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys.

I don't think it's hitting anything since it never sticks in the same place twice. Nothing appears to be misaligned, the tailgate opens and closes squarely and latches correctly, and as far as I can tell all the seals are under even pressure.

But dry slides is a definite possibility, that's something I can fix myself if I can figure out how to get them off ...

However that brings to mind a related question - it takes a fair bit of effort to move the tailgate manually. I assume I'm pushing against the motor, So is there anyway of disengaging that or is the automatic tailgate simply not supposed to be moved manually?
 
#5 ·
I wonder are you standing right behind it by any chance?
I might be talking through my hat here, but is there a slim chance there is a sensor somewhere picking you up and thinking it is unsafe to open it?
 
#7 ·
vectra said:
I wonder are you standing right behind it by any chance?
I might be talking through my hat here, but is there a slim chance there is a sensor somewhere picking you up and thinking it is unsafe to open it?
I thought of that one - unfortunately it also does it when I'm using the key fob and standing off to one side :(

Double gray said:
You can alter the height the tailgate opens, try opening the tailgate and lift to full height and press the switch on tailgate for several seconds then close and see what happens, hopefully it wil work. good luck
I'll try that, thanks.
 
#8 ·
pafrac said:
... it will unlock and start to open, then stop and sound the 3 error beeps.

There's no apparent consistency on where it fails ... sometimes it does it as soon as the tailgate starts to move, other times it gets part way open. But once it does it, it won't open or close, and it stays stuck until I manually move it....
Perhaps related to the virtual pedal process (where are the sensors for this?). I had trouble getting to make the virtual pedal work for ages, until I realised I need to stand back, after engaging it. So perhaps there is something covering a sensor or otherwise getting in the way, and it stops...
 
#9 ·
pafrac said:
vectra said:
I wonder are you standing right behind it by any chance?
I might be talking through my hat here, but is there a slim chance there is a sensor somewhere picking you up and thinking it is unsafe to open it?
I thought of that one - unfortunately it also does it when I'm using the key fob and standing off to one side :(

Double gray said:
You can alter the height the tailgate opens, try opening the tailgate and lift to full height and press the switch on tailgate for several seconds then close and see what happens, hopefully it wil work. good luck
I'll try that, thanks.
Hey!

Did you find a solution for this? Im stuck with the same problem :cry:
 
#10 ·
I'm having an identical problem, tailgate opens approximately 250mm and stops, has to be manually lifted, when trying to close it drops about 150mm and stops, pressing any buttons after it has stopped results in the 3 error beeps. Have tried resetting opening height but don't get any flashing indicators or reset beep - has anyone found a solution to the issue TIA
 
#11 ·
Sorry guys, no simple solution ... it turned out to be a faulty tailgate motor, had it replaced under warranty.
 
#12 ·
Bit of a bump, but I had this tonight. I put some MucOff Bike Lubricant (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-mo94-multi-use-spray?sku=5360719716) into the two black struts and that solved it. It must've been either the cold spell, me cleaning the car, or the salt water from the previous owners (by the sea!) that had got in and caused friction, and then that made the electronics think there was too much resistance and it must be hitting something. Sprayed in, and worked straight away.
 
#13 ·
mike3105 said:
Bit of a bump, but I had this tonight. I put some MucOff Bike Lubricant (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-mo94-multi-use-spray?sku=5360719716) into the two black struts and that solved it. It must've been either the cold spell, me cleaning the car, or the salt water from the previous owners (by the sea!) that had got in and caused friction, and then that made the electronics think there was too much resistance and it must be hitting something. Sprayed in, and worked straight away.
Ha... good job!

I had the same issue with the handle on my double glazed windows at home. Completely siezed up, so bought a new one and was about to replace it when my dad just sprayed some WD40 on it and hey presto!!
 
#14 ·
I have a similar issue with the powered boot (tailgate) on my 2016 Ateca. When opening the boot it opened just over halfway before stopping prematurely. When trying to close the boot, via the button on the boot it didn't move and just sounded the three beeps. In the end I had to shut the boot manually. Now the boot will unlock, but not move, close and lock, but there is no movement from the motors.

Having looked at the vehicle faults, it is showing the following:
Code:
Hall sensor in motor 2 for test hatch    Open circuit/short circuit to B+
Just wondering if anyone can help, before I get the MucOff out ;)
Thanks
S
 
#15 ·
salvogarbo said:
I have a similar issue with the powered boot (tailgate) on my 2016 Ateca. When opening the boot it opened just over halfway before stopping prematurely. When trying to close the boot, via the button on the boot it didn't move and just sounded the three beeps. In the end I had to shut the boot manually. Now the boot will unlock, but not move, close and lock, but there is no movement from the motors.

Having looked at the vehicle faults, it is showing the following:
Code:
Hall sensor in motor 2 for test hatch    Open circuit/short circuit to B+
Just wondering if anyone can help, before I get the MucOff out ;)
Thanks
S
Have you tried Mike3105's solution? He applied some lubricant (I'd imagine WD40 would be similar) to the black struts and that did the trick (see two posts above)
 
#19 ·
I have a 2016 SEAT ATECA First Edition, electric boot does not open fully. I took the car to SEAT who diagnosed 2 X failed hall sensors and quoted £875 to replace both struts. I've since been trying to see if I can get them replaced cheaper myself. It's been more difficult than I initially thought. I can't find a universal part. I can't find any second hand ones from a breakers or eBay but looking at past auctions they can still be quite expensive circa £200 for a used second hand strut. I have come across a universal part for a Tiguan and was wondering if it would fit the Ateca? I've previously been told VW & SEAT use the same parts. The parts look the same and have very similar part numbers. The SEAT part is 57582785 and the VW part is 5NA8275851a. I'm wondering wether it could be the same part and just labelled slightly differently for the different brands.

This is the link for the VW part at £145

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-TIGUAN-AD1-REAR-SPINDLE-DRIVE-GAS-STRUT-SPRING-FOR-AUTO-TAILGATE-BOOT-/233799865205?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I did email the seller to enquire. He seemed to think it would not fit my car but he also quoted the correct part number for my car as being a gas strut after I gave him my vin number which is incorrect.

Has anyone used this part on their SEAT? Or other VAG parts that had a different part number but actually turned out to be the same part/transferrable?

What are people's thoughts on wether it would work or not? Thanks.
 
#21 ·
motor 1 is left hand side in the drivers direction

Just replaced mine after having the issue. Took me 30 min to easily replace with a second hand strut.

Part number left strut: 575827851A
Part number right strut: 575827852A

I did try to solve it using WD40 with no results. I found out that the strut's gasket was damaged and probably let some moisture in causing the hall sensor issue

You can find cheap second hand struts from Poland using allegro.pl there are some sellers on eBay too
 
#23 ·
squinn1 said:
I have a 2016 SEAT ATECA First Edition, electric boot does not open fully. I took the car to SEAT who diagnosed 2 X failed hall sensors and quoted £875 to replace both struts. I've since been trying to see if I can get them replaced cheaper myself. It's been more difficult than I initially thought. I can't find a universal part. I can't find any second hand ones from a breakers or eBay but looking at past auctions they can still be quite expensive circa £200 for a used second hand strut. I have come across a universal part for a Tiguan and was wondering if it would fit the Ateca? I've previously been told VW & SEAT use the same parts. The parts look the same and have very similar part numbers. The SEAT part is 57582785 and the VW part is 5NA8275851a. I'm wondering wether it could be the same part and just labelled slightly differently for the different brands.

This is the link for the VW part at £145

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-TIGUAN-AD1-REAR-SPINDLE-DRIVE-GAS-STRUT-SPRING-FOR-AUTO-TAILGATE-BOOT-/233799865205?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I did email the seller to enquire. He seemed to think it would not fit my car but he also quoted the correct part number for my car as being a gas strut after I gave him my vin number which is incorrect.

Has anyone used this part on their SEAT? Or other VAG parts that had a different part number but actually turned out to be the same part/transferrable?

What are people's thoughts on wether it would work or not? Thanks.
They are the same part. Ateca's complete part number is: 5758275851a
The three prefix numbers are indicating make/model. In this case 575 = Ateca and 5NA = Tiguan
You can read more about VAG part numbers here https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/Blog/vw-part-numbers-explained/
 
#31 ·
They are the same part. Ateca's complete part number is: 5758275851a
The three prefix numbers are indicating make/model. In this case 575 = Ateca and 5NA = Tiguan
You can read more about VAG part numbers here VW Part Numbers Explained
They are the same part. Ateca's complete part number is: 5758275851a
The three prefix numbers are indicating make/model. In this case 575 = Ateca and 5NA = Tiguan
You can read more about VAG part numbers here VW Part Numbers Explained
Hi Langson
Did you use the Tiguan struts in the end?
New Ateca specific struts (575****) are so expensive. However, I can source a pair of new Tiguan struts (5NA****) for a lot less than the price of a single Ateca version. Looking at the pics, they do look exactly the same. If you did fit, were there any other issues?
Cheers.
 
#24 ·
Everyone having the problem with opening the tailgate, getting three beeps and a hall sensor fault: check the wires! Seems to be a common root cause for many where the wires got worn. I checked mine, after re-fitting new struts, two wires were broken. Simple soldering would have solved the problem without buying a replacement strut.
 
Top